We entered Cambodia from Laos, crossing what’s probably the most corrupt border in Northeast Asia. Our route to Siem Reap – the gateway city to Angkor – led us along a royal trail that at times barely existed anymore. We kept stumbling upon temples, tomb ruins, and ancient bridges. We searched for the road by following faint tire marks in the grass, riding through jungle and sandy swamps, fully loaded, in nearly 40°C heat.

There’s something magical about Khmer civilization that makes you feel reverent when you encounter its remnants – the naga-decorated stone bridges, ruined temples, or ancient roads connecting palaces. Maybe it’s the lack of solid historical records, or the legends and myths filling in the gaps – or maybe it’s the beauty of once-great architectural feats reclaimed by nature.

We stayed in Siem Reap for a while. It was time for our first major bike repair – the cylinder on Qndelek began knocking loudly. Luckily, we found a knowledgeable mechanic who diagnosed the problem by ear. But spare parts in Cambodia are hard to come by. The mechanic installed a non-original piston, honed the cylinder, but didn’t restore the nikasil layer. We knew the fix wouldn’t last… but there was nothing else we could do here.

While in Siem Reap, we explored the temples of Angkor and met the local expat community. Cambodia tends to awaken compassion in Westerners. Konstantine, a Greek who had lived there for three years, invited us to join a ride-out with children from the only school for visually impaired kids in the country. We rode with them to Kampong Khlang for lunch – not alone, but with 20 other bikes. The kids were thrilled by the experience, the speed, the wind in their hair (covered only by bicycle helmets). And we, besides seeing the famous stilt village on Tonlé Sap, saw how clearly these children “see” the world.

From Phnom Penh, we headed south to Sihanoukville. Just ten years ago, this was a backpacker paradise, with cozy bamboo bungalows and atmospheric beaches. Today it’s ruled by Chinese capital – high-rises and neon-lit casinos dominate the skyline. We skipped it and decided to visit Koh Rong – the only Cambodian island where you can supposedly bring your own motorcycle. And yes, it’s possible – on a cargo boat, pushing the bike up a wooden plank through a side hatch. Not for the faint-hearted – the loading pier is narrow, the boat’s side is high, and it rocks freely on the waves.

Koh Rong impressed us with its balance between untouched nature, excellent tourist infrastructure, and laid-back village life. We strolled along endless sandy beaches, relaxed on the wooden bungalow porch at the jungle’s edge, and toured the island – where, a few kilometers from our stay, shrimp dried in the sun on a local fisherman’s pier.

A number of Poles live on Koh Rong. We met Artur from Watersports Cambodia, who arranged a scuba diving trip for us to an excellent reef. We also discovered Apsara Resort – a boutique hotel created by Iwona and Staś from Elbląg, a couple who sold everything a year ago and moved to the island to start a new life. Their story touched us so deeply, we briefly considered staying and building something with them!

We promised to think about it and returned from Koh Rong to the mainland. On our way to the border with Thailand – the last one where FVP wasn’t yet required – we rode through endless palm oil plantations. We took open dirt roads and enjoyed the ride on red soil.

We didn’t want to leave. But our minds told us new countries and new adventures were waiting!

Update:
We crossed the border on May 4, 2025, relatively smoothly. A few weeks later, due to tensions near the northern Thai-Cambodian border and a dispute over the Preah Vihear temple, the Thai army closed all land crossings from Cambodia. Overlanders can now only use the Thai borders with Laos and Malaysia. Entry to Thailand with a TIP (Temporary Import Permit), previously issued free of charge, is no longer possible. More on this in our vlog.

Useful links, places we recommend:

Scuba diving on Koh Rong: Watersports Cambodia

Boutique hotel on Koh Rong: Apsara Resort

Boat Noodle Restaurant in Siem Reap

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