Laos. A country that can captivate with its raw nature but also test the patience of any motorcyclist. We spent 58 days, covering 3,150 km of routes that were nothing like the flawless highways of China. It was a real rollercoaster – roads that don’t exist on maps, rafts instead of bridges, mud instead of asphalt, and sudden surface changes that taught us humility. Was it worth it? Absolutely.
Laotian Roads – A Paradise or a Curse?
We entered Laos from China, and the first shock came instantly. From pristine highways straight onto cracked, potholed roads and gravel serpentine tracks. Laos is an off-road paradise, but if you want to move quickly – don’t count on it.
A map won’t help much. A yellow-marked road isn’t necessarily better than a white one, and the most stunning routes are those Google Maps has no clue about. The best GPS here? The locals. They point out trails that seem nonexistent but lead to places we’d never have found on our own.
What Can You Expect on the Roads?
- Cracked asphalt with razor-sharp potholes.
- Dust clouds on dirt roads that turn into slippery mudslides after just a little rain.
- A lack of bridges. River crossings are a daily reality – motorcycles end up on wooden boats or rafts barely bigger than a bed.
- Unpredictable surfaces. Conditions can change in an instant – you have to stay alert because Laos does not forgive mistakes.
What Did We See in Laos?
People often call Laos “sleepy.” It’s true – life moves differently here. Slower, quieter, away from the rush and excess.
Villages off the main routes feel like another world. Stilt houses are spacious, but inside, you’ll find only the essentials – a sleeping area, a few pots, and ancestor photos. Men work harvesting cassava, women weave sarongs, and barefoot children run along the roads.
North vs. South
The north is lush green, with limestone mountains, hidden caves, and untouched waterfalls. A paradise for exploration if you love wild nature and motorcycle loops.
The south is dominated by the Mekong River – endless rice fields and boats dotting the water. It’s flatter, but this is where you’ll see some of Laos’ most iconic landscapes.
One thing is certain – Laos is changing. The Chinese-built dams and hydroelectric plants on the Mekong are multiplying, modern Chinese railways are in full operation, and the French colonial influence is fading. If you want to experience Laos as it is now, go as soon as possible.
Riding a Motorcycle in Laos – How Does It Work?
Laos is a great place for motorcycle exploration, even for those without their own bike. You can rent a scooter for a few dollars per day or a motorcycle for $20–30 USD. The most popular loops include:
- The Thakek Loop – full of caves and rock formations.
- The Northeastern Loop – winding through mountain landscapes, perfect for a relaxed ride.
Where Are We Heading Next?
Southeast Asia is pulling us in more and more. After Laos and Northern Thailand, we’re now in Cambodia. Each country is different, but one thing remains the same – the warmth and hospitality of the people.
Riding our own motorcycles gives us absolute freedom – we can set our own pace, stop wherever we want, and experience these countries from the inside out. That’s why we’re continuing southeast – next up: Cambodia, Southern Thailand, and Malaysia.
Laos – Is It Worth It?
If you’re looking for challenges, adventure, and roads that shake you to your core – then yes, it’s worth it. If dust, mud, the sun beating through your visor, and sudden plan changes don’t scare you – you’ll love Laos.
This is one of those places where the journey is more important than the destination. And those are the places we love the most.
