Let’s go to Nagar Fort today – I said to Jack. That’s were Rosie and Adeel were staying yesterday.

Evening and night have been so tiring that I didn’t really feel like having another travel problems to solve. We’ve had some real adventures the day before with officials trying to give us an escort, and guesthouses refusing to accommodate us. Moreover we got food poisoned one after another and felt really weak.

I was exchanging messages with Adeel – Pakistani biker traveller for a few days and he mentioned the location as one they were supposed to visit last night. It must be decent place to rest overnight before further journey north – I thought, while packing stuff. They wouldn’t be there anymore, but I want to meet them in Chitral. I am so curious about the Canadian Youtube Celeb – King of Pakistan couple!

Rosie and Adeel
Rosie and Adeel

The road to Nagar fort is pleasantly led along the river. Up to Lowari Tunnel not much is going on in terms of landscapes. We pass small towns and concentrate on efficient riding to reach the destination before dark.

The Lowari tunnel itself is said to be the longest tunnel in Asia. Impressive, as it is – 10 km long shortening the way of over 22 km through huge snowed Lowari Pass and icy serpentine road in Hindu Kush mountains. Bikes are not allowed there on wheels. Yeah that sounds ridiculous – like do you know any other tunnel in the world where bikes have to be carried through?

The tunnel is dangerous, it’s very dark there” – said the guy with omnipresent Ak47 just before he lead us towards small loading platform.
Step shaped terrain allows bikes to ride into the loading space of the pickup.
It’s not possible to load 2 on 1” – I said.
There are 2 for you – replied the driver.”

Right next to Toyota sleek Suzuki Ravi appeared.

Lowari Tunnel

I have loaded my bike on tiny little boats before but never heavy ones. So one more adventure ahead! I am starting slowly and under Jack’s hints I am just smoothly parked in the pickup crate. Whoah that was easier than I imagined!  The minute later Jack is also loaded the same way and the drivers start to secure our stallions with a rope. Not the best protection, but at least they assured themselves that we are good to go!

Sitting on my bike swaying on the car crate I am dividing my attention between looking out the danger in perfectly even concrete tunnel lighten with old style bulbs and holding the rails of Suzuki Ravi crate. More danger in preventing my bike from falling here than from riding.

Unloading goes the same way…

Finally the dim light of dusk is shining in far end. We’re unpacking bike at the ramp and getting ready to go further. There is only 33 km left to Drosh and Nagar Fort is even closer. Sadly It’s getting dark and all we can see is nicely serpentined asphalt in front of us. Judging from hairpins and elevation changes – that must be an awesome road! I am little disappointed that we left too late again and I cannot see the best part of the road, but quickly get over the feeling.

Naghar fort

Soon, the green signs announcing Nagar fort are showing up. We take sharp U shaped curve, go down concrete narrow road and cross the river Chitral through wooden suspension bridge. The gate opens and Adeel greets us there. Together with Rosie they have arrived just few minutes before us, so we’re all agreeing to refresh ourselves and have dinner together.

The real value of Nagar Fort as a place making up for all hardships reveals itself slowly. The massive stone walls are hiding beautifully manicured gardens, evenly cut lawns decent quality rooms, and spatious terraces with awesome views. Dinner is coming late but with great variety of fresh delicious food. The four of us is sharing chicken karahi, palak and sabzi talking mostly about ourselves as we even didn’t meet in person before. Within different life stories we soon find similarities of perception and perspective. I feel really excited to find new pals, Jack is also enjoying as definitely – we get along!

The morning after we decide to continue the travel north together.

Shopping pitstop in Drosh

Ride starts easily with paved roads, nice curves and landscape distracting with beauty. Adeel leads the group with great confidence. One could say not only he knows it by heart, but also he has the ability to see backwards to make sure the group members are following with the pace. We reach Drosh town and stop here for shopping and fueling bikes. Boring things done, let’s head towards our destination: Kalasha Valley.

This is one of the areas in northern Pakistan less explored by western tourists. Known from stunning mountain passes, blue eyed, traditionally dressed people who used to claim that they are direct Alexander the Great descendants. Eager to see it with my own eyes!

Initial kilometers are so rewarding with scenic views… The Chitral river winds down in the canyon, just along the road. The small houses on the opposite slope look like chocolate boxes pressed here and there into the rocky slope. Occasional flats between the mountains are filled with green terraces.

The Chitral river

Miles, go by fast, but… How that’s even possible? – I am staring with disbelief on incredible dance of gopro & mobile filming on the go by Rosie and Adeel. This looks like motorcycle video dance. Every time I turn my head away from the landscape to look in the road in front of me I see the camera lens shooted forward, backward, to the side, oh, every possible direction! There are always 2 devices in use each and every moment and these two are real pros when it comes to filming while riding. Rosie’s long braid jumps happily in the wind while she is steering her Fuego motorcycle one hand. Adeel films mostly backwards holding his Iphone straight confidently. Given the speed we’re riding… hats off!

Bumburet 

The real adventure is beginning when we turn into off road part of the track. Narrow, bumpy mountain road winds up and down to the river providing the real thrill. Parts are carved in the rock, other destroyed by landslides. Here and there the stream is crossing the path. Rosie and Adeel don’t stop filming. Gear changes? Yeah… without the clutch.

The photo pit stops are a must, and we’re having them quite a few. Whenever we stop – Rosie pulls out her Sony and sharpens the views with her artist’s eye.

World is full of home made photographers, viedeographers, but I’ve never met such visual art beast – I thought.

Few times we come across the cars driving opposite direction and pass them not without flutter as the sandy banks of road are neighbouring deep abyss. The four of us are having ultimate fun though. That’s exactly what you come here for right? Winding mountainous roads, no protective bands that spoil the views and challenging adventure rides!

The technical challenges are there too. Rosie’s bike has some problems with starting all the day, eventually it stops for good. Jack asks about the symptoms and finds the problem within 5 minutes. Fuel filter came away and prevented the fuel flow. It’s getting dark and we are in the middle of nowhere, so Jack and Adeel are fixing it with zip straps. Adeel’s bike lost some air from rear tyre, hence seizing the opportunity Jack pulls out the pump.

Remaining 15 km we overcome in complete darkness. Rushing through small Kalasha settlements we’re greeted occasionally by villagers. The moon is almost full and despite cloudy sky the details of the road are quite visible in the dark. Eventually we reach Happy Guesthouse in Bumburett valley, offering simple, yet cosy wooden rooms in the mountains. The following night will be Adeel’s birthday and a start to the most inspiring and blissful friendship. But this story is yet to be told…

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One Comment

  1. Worth reading it 😊 such a fantastic adventure y’all having 🏞️ good luck 🤞

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